The Jagamwadi Math in Varanasi

The Jangamwadi math (pronounced as ‘mutt’) belongs to the ViraShaiva sect and is one of the most prominent math in Varanasi. A ‘math’ is a center of learning and research lead by a Peethadhipati or a great leader and every ‘math’ and its followers owe their allegiance to a specific religious thought and way of worship and conduct in life. Shaiva Dharma is believed to have promoted the worship of Shiva in his many different forms and so were born many sects who were Shiva believers. Of these many sects, was born the Virashaiva sect or Lingayat who are also known as ‘Jangam’. The Virashaiva sect was prominent in the southern part of India.According to the Vasava Purana, the Virashaiva sect was started by Allabhprabhu and his student – a Brahmin by the name Vasava who was a courtier in the reign of Kalachuri. According to the spiritual leaders of the Virshaiva sect, five great spiritual souls enriched the virshaiva dharma through their teachings at different times in its long history. They were Renukacharya, Darukacharya, Ekormacharya, Panditaradhya and Vishwaradhya. It is believed that these five great teachers were born from the unique Linga of Shiva. And these teachers established the seat of Virshaiva learning at Rambhapuri(Mysore), Ujjain, Ukhimath(Kedarnath), Shree Shail and Kashi (Varanasi). Over the years, the Virshaiva sect was divided in to four sub sects – the Jangam, Sheelvant, Vanik and Panchamshali. The literature of the Jangam or Lingayat sect is predominantly composed in the Kannada Language, a language spoken majorly in the Karnataka state of India.
As per the literature available at the Jangamwadi Math, it is said that the Math in Varanasi was established in the Sat Yuga. However, historical records indicate that the Jangamwadi math was established in Kashi somewhere between 759-65 AD. Jagadguru Shivacharya Vishwaradha Mahaswami is said to have set up the math in Kashi. At present, the Jangamwadi math or mutt is situated close to the famous Kashi Vishwanath temple in the Godowlia area of Varanasi.
The Jangamwadi Math is also known as the Jana Simhasan or Jana Peeth. The word ‘Jangam’ means ‘one who knows Shiva’ and ‘Wadi’ means ‘place of living’. Therefore, the place where those who are ‘aware’ of the Shiva stay, came to be known as Jangamwadi. At present, Shri Jagadguru Shivacharya Dr. Chandrasekhar Shivacharya Mahaswami is the 86th ‘Peethadhipati’ or the leader of the math in Kashi.
Deepawali/Diwali and Mahashivaratri are the major festivals of this prominent math. Millions of devotees from across India and the globe congregate at the Matha during these festivals. The Shiva Linga and Jana Peeth established by Jagadguru Vishwaradhya at the Jangamwadi math are the main cornerstones of religious faith and focus. Apart from the many ‘Sadhu’s (saints) who stay at the math, students also reside here. At present, around 50 students reside at the Jangamwadi math where they actively pursue the study of Vedas, Sanskrit and the scriptures.

A Brief History of Varanasi

As per recorded history, the foundation of modern Varanasi was laid by a man called Mansa Ram.

Mansa Ram worked for Meer Rustam Ali till 1738, who had bought the rights for the control and administration of the Varanasi(or Benaras) region from the then Nawab of Awadh. The Varanasi region was part of the kingdom of the Nawab of Audh who resided in Lucknow.Meer Rustam Ali had paid the Nawab of Audh, a sum of 8 lakh rupees or 8 hundred thousand rupees for the control over the region.Mansa Ram, it is believed, bought the rights for the Varanasi region from the Nawab by paying a astronomical sum of 12 lakh rupees. However, Mansa Ram passed away very soon and his son Balwant Singh came to occupy his position. Balwant Singh administered the Banaras region from 1738-39 to 1770. And it was during his rule that in 1754, the majestic fort at Ramnagar near Varanasi was built. The roal family of Varanasi still stays at the Ramnagar fort.

After the death of Balwant Singh in 1770, Maharaja Chet Singh took over the reign in Benaras.On the 18th of Aug in 1781, Warren Hastings, a British governor general plotted against Chet Singh and forced him to give up his Kingship replacing him instead with his nephew, a very young Mahip Narayan Singh who was made the king. Later Vibhuti Narayan Singh became the King of Varanasi.IN 1916, King Vibhuti Narayan Singh donated many acres of land at the behest of Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya to set up the world famous Banaras Hindu University.

During the sepoy mutiny of 1857 against the british rule, the dissent of soldiers at Banaras was soon suppressed. However, the short lived agitation had served a warning to the britishers and they converted the Banaras military post in to a full fledged military headquarters and they monitored the security of the GT road from this post and troops to the north and western fronts were always sent from Banaras.

After the independence of India in 1947, Banaras(Varanasi) became part of the state of Uttar Pradesh of the republic of India.

The present King of Kashi(or Varanasi) is Kunwar Anant Narayan Singh who resides at the Ramnagar Fort. He actively presides over the major cultural fests of Varanasi like the Ramlila and Naag Nathaiya. Although a ceremonial figure, he is respected by the people of Varanasi.

82.5 degree longitude - the exact spot lies in Vindyachal near Varanasi

The Indian Standard Time is the time observed through out India and is calculated on the basis of the 82.5 degree longitude.This line passes through several major Indian cities, however the Vindhyachal town, just west of the town of Mirzapur near Varanasi in the state of Uttar Pradesh is most cited. The longitude difference between Vindhyachal and the United Kingdom's Royal Observatory at Greenwich translates to an exact time difference of 5 hours 30 minutes.

Vindhyachal as I have mentioned in one of my earlier posts is a pilgrimage town where millions of devotees from allover India gather to worship the mother goddess Vindhyavasini, an avatar of Shakti or Goddess Durga.During the Navratas, the Vindhyachal town is flooded with worshippers of goddess Shakti as Vindhyachal Devi is one of the 'Shakti Peeth's' where the goddess is believed to reside in one of her sevral forms.
The exact spot that denotes the 82.5 degree longitude lies at a distance of around two hundred meters west of the Amravati cross road in Vindhyachal on the Mirzapur -Allahabad road. There is a billboard at the spot that marks the unique location of the 82.5 degree.

The interesting part is that the same place i.e Vindhyachal(and not the same spot actually) has been used as a reference point since centuries for calculating time by Indians.The traditional Hindu calendar or the Panchang has always used Vindhyachal as areference point for time calculations.This is a remarkable proof of the development of astronomical sciences in ancient India.

There is also another interesting legend associated with the Shiva temple that lies close to the main pilgrimage site of Vindhyachal. Popular folklore has it that the Vindhyeshwar Mahadeva Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is the site where the ten headed demon King, Ravana established a 'Shiva Linga' to worship Lord Shiva. Now Ravana as per the Hindu epic Mahabharata was a extremely learned and enlightened Shiva bhakta and had the most profound knowledge of almost all the branches of learning.And he is believed to have used the place as reference point for the standard time measurements during his rule. The temple is around a mile away from the now acknowledge and marked spot though. While there isn't any scientific evidence to prove the veracity of the above beliefs, the existence of the legend and the location of the temple at a place so close to the 82.5 degree longitude cannot be a sheer coincidence.

Various Religious Organizations in Varanasi and their activities

Varanasi is home to a large number of religious and spiritual organizations representative of the many communities in India.

Arya Samaj is located in Bulanala and Lallapur.Bharat Dharma Mahamandal was started in 1857 by Pandit Din Dayalu Sarma of Punjab and later on it came under the influence of Swami Jnanananda.Located at Lahurabir, it is publishing many valuable works.

Parivrajak Mandal was started around 1923 in Lakhsmi Kund.It is aimed at spreading the reiligous and Dharma feelings in rural areas through its team of Sadhus.Garibdas Mangal Math is running Dayalu Vidyalaya at Bans Phatak.

A number of buddhist monasteries existed in Varanasi and Sarnath in the early years of Indian history. The chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang refers to thirty monasteries in Varanasi alone. At present there are there Buddhist monasteries one near Kashi Vidyapeeth and two near Maldahiya.

Chintamani Parsvanath Jain Mandir at Ram ghat is a matha(mutt) belonging to Jain traditions.

Among other religious faiths, christian missionaries may be found working in Varanasi. There are six religious institutions belonging to Sunni muslims and two belonging to Shias.

The various Hindu Mathas or mutts in Varanasi played a very critical role during the tumultous period of Muslim invasions and muslim oppressive rule from the beginning of the 11th century to the middle of the 18th century.

Varanasi Dons a Festive Look in the Navratras

Navratri or Navratra is an important festival that is celebrated by the Hindus in Varanasi with great fervour and devotion. The period of nine days(hence the name 'navratra') is marked by fasting by the people especially the women folk and visits to the temples of goddess Shakti or Durga in the city of Varanasi. The fasting during the Navratri or the 'nine nights' is to propitiate the mother goddess Shakti as she is endowed with the power to grant any wish and to remove the obstacles from the road to success. Most of the Hindus abstain from eating non-vegetarian food, drinking liquor, indulging in sexual intercourse during this period. Some believers continue to fast over the entire nine days period surviving only on fruits and other items that are considered 'satvik' or pure.

In Varanasi, devotees throng to the temples of the many avatars of the mother goddess Shakti during the entire nine days period. The Durga Temple at Durgakund is considered to be the oldest of the Shakti temples in the city and is highly renowned and revered. Queues of devotees extending for more than a mile can be seen at the temple on the first and the last day of the Navratri festival.

Vindhyachal, a temple of the goddess shakti in the nearby district of Mirzapur is around 75 kms from Varanasi.It is a 'Shakti Peeth' - one the most revered and sacred spots of worship devoted to the mother goddess Shakti, who is believed to have chosen to stay at the spot after killing the demon king - Mahisashura. The temple is visited by millions of devotees from around the country during the navratri festival. Vindhyanchal is an important pilgrimage center and is also known as Vindhyavasini Devi. The other two temples at Vindhyanchal, the Ashtabhuja temple and the Kali Khoh temple are situated closeby and they form the 'sacred triangulation' or the 'Trikon Parikrama' which means that the devotees visit each of these three temples to complete a triangular journey on foot.

For the nine days of Navratri, Varanasi reverberates with devotional songs dedicated to the mother goddess Durga and the city dons a festive look as the end of the navratri period draws near. On the eight or the ninth day of the navratri festival in Varanasi, large fairs are held close to some of the Shakti tamples and families throng to these fairs.Virtually, the entire Varanasi city congregates at these fairs which come alive the hundred of small shops, hawkers selling a variety of popular merchandise and then of course, there are the joy rides and toy trains for the kids.

"Jai Mata Di' (meaning 'Praise be to the Mother goddess') reverberates in the air in Varanasi and the atmosphere radiates with the collective devotion of the people of Varanasi.
Jai Mata Di!

Tourist Spots in Varanasi - Saint Kabir Das Memorial Temple at Kabirchaura in Varanasi

Of the many saints who lived and taught in Varanasi, the name of Kabir Das towers above the rest for his revolutionary thoughts and preaching’s as early as the 1440 AD. Legend has it that a Muslim weaver couple of Varanasi found an infant beside a lake in Kashi(Varanasi) and named him Kabir. Though some people believed him to be the son of high caste Brahmin who had cast him away. There is no concrete evidence on the exact place of birth of Kabir or who were the original parent’s? Nevertheless, Kabir Das was revered equally by the contemporary Hindus and Muslims.

Saint Kabir Das was a mystic poet whose work had a marked influence on the Bhakti Movement. His work is also included in the Guru Granth Sahib – the holy book of Sikhism and Kabir Das is considered one of the 15 Sikh Bhagats. The ‘Kabir Panthi’s” is a religious community that considers Kabir Das as its founding father and proudly carry forward his legacy even today. Kabir’s teachings are mainly in the form of two-line verses called ‘Dohas’. The basic religious principles he espoused are simple. According to Kabir, all life is interplay of two spiritual principles. One is the personal soul (Jivatma) and the other is God (Paramatma). It is Kabir's view that salvation is the process of bringing into union these two divine principles. Kabir Daspreached the oneness of all religions and was not supportive of the meaningless rituals of Hinduism or the mindless repetition of Islam. His writings were mainly based on the concept of reincarnation and karma. Kabir Das never really abandoned his worldly life to become a saint, choosing instead to balance his life between a traditional household person and a mystic who lived his life in a simplistic manner.
Kabit Das composed poems that were full of praise for the True Guru or Satguru. He never spoke of any human gurus in his poems. Being illiterate, his verses were always spoken in the vernacular Hindi as he could never express himself in writing. Sant Kabir’s greatest composition is the ‘Bijak’ (the seedling) – a collection of poems that resonate with the idea of the fundamental one. Kabir Das advocated the ‘Sahaja’ Path or the simple/natural way to oneness with the supreme being rather than following of complex religious rites.
Kabis Das left for his heavenly abode in the year 1518 at a place called Magahar near Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh. His mortal remains are preserved in a Samadhi-Mandir in the Kabir Chaura area of Varanasi. Since he was revered by both the Hindus and Muslims, after his death a Samadhi-Mandir was erected on the order of the ruler of Kashi –Raja Veerdev Singh Ju. This was done to appease both his Hindu and Muslim followers. This samadhi-mandir is built on 1600 square feet (40 X 40) of land in a square shape with baluwa stones. The chauki (the part of the temple just outside the main entrance and running across the periphery of the temple) is done in black and white marble and the temple’s ghanta-ghar is made of beautifully carved stone. The temple’s roof is considered a unique and outstanding piece of architecture. The temple’s dome and minaret are evidence of rare works of architecture and workmanship. The samadhi-mandir’s courtyard is now used for holding special ceremonies.

Things to do in Varanasi - the famous Mithai(Sweets) of Varanasi

Varanasi has a rich tradition of eating sweets(or Mithai, as sweets are called in India) made from milk based products. Like the omnipresent ‘Banarasi Paan’ shops in Varanasi, one finds sweet shops at almost every street in Varanasi. The sight of the varied varieties of sweets displayed at these shops as you traverse the city is a mouth watering experience. Looking back in to the rich cultural heritage of Varanasi, it is easy to understand the reason for the mind-boggling variety of sweets available in Varanasi. Over the past few centuries, Varanasi has been the center of influx of settlers from different regions of India. It is a virtually a mini India of sorts and there are small niche settlements in Varanasi which predominantly boast of the presence of a particular community that settled down in Varanasi. There are the Muslims, the Bengali’s, the South Indians, the Christians, the Sindhi’s, Sikhs, Gujarati’s, Marwaris and the other smaller groups from different parts of India who have made Varanasi their home. As is to be expected, these small, niche localities display a unique lifestyle that still retains the flavor of their original culture and customs of the places they came from including their culinary tradition. For the casual travelers to Varanasi, it would be difficult to notice the difference as these communities have intermingled with the local Varanasi culture and have adopted the ways of Varanasi. However, if you were to take a closer look, you can see the diversity in the unity of Varanasi. The long period of cultural intermixing has created a unique culinary tradition in Varanasi where you would find delicacies from the menu of almost every state of India.
Sweets being part of the menu of almost all Indian cultures, the settlers in Varanasi brought their own unique recipes that gradually became a part of the composite sweet culture of Varanasi. The most popular sweets of Varanasi that are loved by all include the Kalakand,Lal Peda, Parval, Kulfi, Maalpua, Malai Puri and the divine Rabri. And then there is the ‘Lawanglata’ – a sweet that is very well known and really popular among the masses – which you would find in every sweet shop of Varanasi, big or small. If you have a thing for sweets and have a sweet tooth, Varanasi will be a mouth watering odyssey. Feast on the juicy Rosogollas(or Rasgulla), take a big bite of that creamy Barfi or feel the soft Maalpua melting away in your mouth delighting your taste buds. And of course, there is the rich, creamy sweet Lassi of Varanasi– the perfect way to wash down the gastronomical delights. These sweets are made from ‘Khowa’ and ‘Chhena’ both derivatives of milk – that undergo a series of processes perfected by the skilled workers who inherited the art from their forefathers, and shaped into various geometrical forms that adorn the showcase of the sweet shops in Varanasi.
There are many old and good sweet shops that have their own fan base in and around the areas they are located. Some of them are more famous for a particular type of sweet and people would visit the shop from different part of the city to buy. There are some really small shops that have become the ‘go to shop’ if you want to buy a particular variety of sweet. They have a huge fan base in the city and they have become household names renowned for that one special variety of sweet. Then there are the larger sweet shops in Varanasi where you can find almost all the major varieties of sweets you have heard of and some of these shops are equally famous for their good quality and variety. Personally, I love the sweets from a shop called the ‘Chheer Sagar’ that is located close to the Sonarpura chowk on the road to Godowlia.
Changing with the times and keeping in mind the unique needs of the clientele, some of these popular shops also sell the sugar free and low fat versions of their sweets. They claim that they use the sugar substitute that is the choice of diabetics and sugar patients. This has not only increased their client base but also brought back their many fans who had been forced to give up their favorite sweets due to their medical conditions. So even those travelers who may be suffering from high blood sugar or diabetes, can visit some of these sweet shops and savor the many heavenly delights that will sweeten your Varanasi experience. I wonder if some enlightened author would take a cue from the many ‘mithai’ or sweets of Varanasi and compose a ‘Mithaisutra’ on the lines of the extremely popular ‘Kamasutra’ of Khajuraho in India. Not a bad idea, eh? What do you say?

Shopping in Varanasi - the exquisite Banarasi Sari is the pride of Varanasi

Of all the things that Varanasi is famous for, the Banarasi Sari, a rich Sari made by expert weavers using the finest of silks stands out.Banaras is one of the more commonly used names for Varanasi in India and hence the sari's that were weaved here became famous as 'Banarasi Sari'. The Sari is the traditional costume of Indian women and the ‘Banarasi Sari’ epitomizes the best of the breed. It is said that the Banarasi Sari is veritable a 'poetry in silk'.

The history of the silk industry in Varanasi is traditionally linked to the Muslim community, which for almost 800 years was in charge of production. The exotic art of weaving perfected by the weavers in Varanasi remains unmatched. One of the unique features of the Banarasi Sari is the heavy gold brocade which has an extra weft of rich gold thread running across the warp threads. The motifs are picked up in silk thread and bright colors are added in the unique style called Meenakari that is used in gold jewellery. The all over gold brocade known as kimkhab carries patterns of ‘jal’ a trellis enclosing stylized rounded bits. Another variety consists of fine tissue like gold cloth which has warp and weft of gold thread and the patterns worked in silk and gold thread. Generally, the background material is woven in silk and the patterns in gold.

The Banarasi Sari is generally a little costlier than the other type of Saris. The reason is simple. The weavers use the best quality silk yarn that is brought from Karnataka, another state in India, unlike the China silk which is low quality and cheaper. Secondly, the Banarasi saree is woven on handlooms unlike those woven on powerlooms. The former is not only better in terms of design and motif but also in terms of weaving quality and durability. And of course, there is the exotic artistry of the weavers in Varanasi who have been rendering these masterpieces for the past few centuries. Their embroidery work (called Zardozi) is an art to behold.
The common types of Banarasi sarees include the pure banarasi silk sari, georgette sari, Meenakri, Zardozi,Cansal, Jamvar, Navrangi and Jamdani. It is the dream of every Indian woman to own at least one original Banarasi saree and Indian brides love to drape themselves in the ‘poetry in silk’ epitomized by a pure banarasi sari. Travelers from around the world who come to Varanasi and who are aware of the quality of Banarasi saris, make it a point to visit the popular shopping centers in Varanasi to buy their favourite Banarasi Sari. It’s one opportunity they don’t wish to let go off.

Raj Ghat in Varanasi - Excavated remains revealed the connection of Varanasi with the Western World

Rajghat , one of the many ghats in Varanasi used to be a important ferry ghat in the 19th century.Archaelogical excavations carried out near Raj Ghat revealed a variety of terracotta human and animal figurines which hed light on the cultural and political history of Varanasi from the Sunga to the Gahadaval times. The finds include 300 seals and tokens and numerous earthenware pots, besides some coins, beads, ornaments and other objects of domestic use made of pottery, stone, metal, shell, ivory, glass,etc.
The most remarkable finds from the archaelogical excavations consists of tokens of terracotta, impressed with the well-known obverse designs of the Imperial Gupta coins. Several heads from Rajghat which, though not exactly identical, show unmistakable similarity with the heads on the Roman coins. The modelling of the head,the proportion of the parts, the delineation of the nose, eyes and the chin and the treatment of hair betray classical features which are typical of the secular and divine heads occurring on the Greek and Roman gems and coins.These findings hint of a steady commercial and cultural exchange between India and the western world and reveal the importance of Varanasi as an international centre of trade and commerce on the one hand and culture and art on the other. This is considered valuable as so far the evidence regarding India's intercourse with the West as mainly based on the literary notices of the classical authors.The findings at Raj Ghat emerged as a more concrete evidence of the rich past of Varanasi. The collection unearthed during the excavations at Raj Ghat are carefully preserved and can be seen in the Bharat Kala Bhavan in BHU, Varanasi.

Raj Ghat lies south of the Dashaswamedha ghat and is on the road from Varanasi to Mughal Sarai Railway junction.The distance is approximately 8 kms from Varanasi rail head and is a unique place to visit while in Varanasi.

Shopping for Carpets and Rugs in Varanasi - what you should know?

The region between Varanasi-Bhadohi-Mirzapur is India’s carpet belt with Bhadohi near Varanasi being the epicenter of the carpet industry in India. Carpet weaving was introduced in India in the 16th century after the Mughal Emperor Akbar conquered India. Influeneced by the popular Persian culture, the Mughal dynasty set up carpet weaving centers that churned our Persian-inspired weavings as well as classic Mogul carpets featuring realistic floral and pictorial renditions.Now the carpet belt of this region near Varanasi is one of the key centers that produce both pile and flat-woven rugs available in an impressive range of qualities, designs, colorations, and sizes. The Bhadohi weavers have shown a remarkable ability to adapt to ever-changing Western decorative tastes while recreating Persian rug designs at increasingly higher quality standards. Moreover, their rugs are produced in an impressive range of qualities averaging from approximately 85 to 150 knots per square inch. Some of the weavers' dexterity is such that they are even able to produce carpets with over 300 knots per square inch. Most popular in the last decade have been wool dhurries, now mainly characterized by floral designs in an array of fashionable colorations including pastels and more vibrant hues. Also available, although in lesser quantity, are cotton dhurries displaying bold geometric patterns.

The weaving of the rugs is an extremely complex, and time consuming process. Once the yarn has been readied, the skill and artistry of the weavers begin. With the design already rendered in full scale, a team of three to five weavers will prepare a large handloom with the finest machine-spun threads, known as warp threads. Running from the top to the bottom of the loom, this extra strong foundation serves both as the base of the carpet and the trademark fringe.At this stage, gifted hands commence the time-honored process of looping knots of colored yarn around each warp thread, thus creating the rug’s dense pile. After each row of knots is tied, a weft yarn is passed from one side of the carpet to the other before the next row of knots is tied. The wefts are beaten down with heavy steel tools, keeping all the knots securely in place. This balance of tension and compression is unique to hand-woven rugs, and is one of the keys to their legendary durability. This patient process continues, with each craftsman tying as many as 10,000 to 14,000 knots a day – sometimes for as long as 18 months. Little wonder then that some of the hand woven rugs can cost up to a few thousand dollars.
The handwoven rugs are long lasting too and remain beautiful for decades. The key is to treat the rug like your prized antique furniture.

Betel Mania in Varanasi, the undying love for the Banarasi Paan

It is a popular saying that if you were to sum up the essence of the way of life in Varanasi in three simple words, all you have to say is, 'Ganga,Bholenath and Paan'.In Varanasi, these three words virtually signify, the three pillars of life.Ganga, the river is revered as the the mother goddess, Bholenath, another name for Lord Shiva, is the supreme deity of Varanasi,and the Paan is the humble betel leaf that is proudly chewed upon by the true Banarasi.The word 'Banarasi' is generally used to refer to anyone or anything that has its origins in Banaras or Varanasi.So when the Paan of this area became famous all over the country for its unique flavor, the name "Banarasi Paan" stuck on and over the centuries, the banarasi paan has achieved an iconic following all over the country.

For those who come from countries where chewing of betel leaf is not a tradition, the ubiquitous red stains that are to be found everywhere in Varanasi is an incredibly harrowing experience. I have seen foreigners in Varanasi shocked, bewildered and horrified by the sight of men suddenly spitting out red coloured sprays from their oral cavities and then move on, leaving the poor guy wondering if that was blood or something else.An unsavory sight you would say.Nevertheless, this is a sight that is the second most common experience in Varanasi, the first one would be of course the sight of men.Yes, almost every one in Varanasi chews Paan.

There is a Paan shop after every 50 meters in Varanasi where one can buy Paan for as little as 1 rupee. Some special varieties of Paan may cost up to 10 rupees too. The shopkeepers who run these Paan shops are called 'Paanwallahs' and each 'Paanwallah' has his own style of preparing the Paan. The general method though includes dipping the betel or the paan leaf in water, then smearing the leaf with small doses of chuna(lime), Kattha(Acacia Catechu), Supari(betel nut), Saunph(Fennel), surti(ground tobacco leaves), Zarda(a type of flavored tobacco) and then finally, the leaf is delicately folded in to tringular shape and graciously handed over to the buyer who would then in an equally graceful movement of hand, put the folded paan in to his mouth and then slowly dig his teeth , crushing the paan to reach the mixture inside, letting his oral juices intermingle freely with the components of the Paan and then wait for that sensory confirmation from his taste buds to tell him that all is well and the Paan was perfect. Satisfied, he would dig in to his pockets to pull out the well deserved one rupee coin and hand it over to the Paanwallah,in the process also praising him for a job well done before moving on.This is a ritual that you can witness every minute if you were to stand by one of the Paan shops in the city.

The Paan and its components after mixing with the oral juices take on a dark red colour which leaves a red stain wherever it is spit.Fact is, the concoction that forms up in the mouth after chewing paan is not swallowed, rather it is spit out after savoring it for some time. Nobody minds the paan spitting in Varanasi though. The tradition is so intricately woven in to the fabric of life of a Banarasi that it never occurs to anyone that others may find it filthy.For the average Banarsi, eating paan is as much a part of life as drinking water or eating food.

The tradition of chewing Paan is to be seen all over India and the Paan was used by Indians as early as 2600 BC. The Paan is also used in sacred rituals and is offered to guests during important family functions too.

In Varanasi though the chewing of Paan is not just an occasional indulgence, it is a way of life. And it is likely to remain so for times to come.

Shopping in Varanasi - The Exotic Handmade Carpets of Varanasi

Varanasi is also recognized the world over as a hub of Carpet industry. The Varanasi-Bhadohi-Mirzapur belt of this region has been home to traditional carpet weavers who produce some of the most exotic carpets,rugs and durries renowned globally for their quality and magnificent artwork.The carpet trade from this region had been going on for centuries and carpets from this belt are exported to almost all the countries of the world.Bhadohi, a small town about 45 kms from Varanasi is the center of Carpet trade and has some of the oldest and largest carpet manufacturing units.Historical evidence shows that the Banaras weaving industry reached its peak during the Mughal period, due to the patronage of mighty Mughal emperors such as Akbar.

The vast majority of rugs in this region are made using traditional hand knotting skills in small loom sheds or village homes.In addition to Persian designs, pile-woven Aubusson and Savonnerie rugs and flat-woven tapestry-technique dhurries are woven near Varanasi.Exquisite hand made carpets including Handmade Rugs, Handmade Carpets, Hand Woven Dhurries, Hand Tufted Carpets,... the sheer variety of carpets you van find in Varanasi and Bhadohi can leave you spell bound.

The main area where one can look for carpets and handloom products in Varansi is the 'Chowk' area and Godowlia and Thatheri Bazaar.AroundVaranasi also offers its clients special shopping trips which will take them to some of the most dependable and reputed shopping centers in Varanasi for carpets and handlooms.write to us at aroundvaranasi@gmail.com

Bhadohi near Varansi is the current manufacturing hub where there are both small and large units churning out some of the most incredible carpets and rugs.Here you can find cotton durries,Chapra Mir Carpet,Loribaft,Indo-gabbah,nepalese carpets and shaggy type carpets.There are estimated to be around 90000 weavers in this region and about 90 percent of the products are exported to foreign countries.

It is only fair that when you travel to Varanasi, you should get one of these magnificent carpets. You are likely to get a good deal at some of the reputed shops.And, it sure can be a great gift for your friends and family back home.

The exotic Rambagh Baradari in the Rambagh Gardens in Ramnagar, near Varanasi

The erstwhile Benares(another name for Varanasi) state was under the rule of Maharaji Chet Singh who ruled the state 200 years ago.Chet Singh had commissioned some magnificent buildings and gardens during his rule.One such enchanting garden is the Rambagh in Ramnagar near Varanasi, which has some rare varieties of flowers and medicinal plants. However, the prime attraction of Rambagh is the 'Baradari' where the Maharaja would sit with his royal entourage and enjoy the views of the surreal surroundings. The 'Baradari' is made from the rare 'Makrana stone' which is also used in the construction of the Taj Mahal, one of the seven wonders of the world.Elegant carved stone pillars support delicate arches with a decorative central seating area for the King. The Baradari was recently in news after reports came out that the rare stones of the baradari are breaking loose due to the careless activities of visitors as well as from the attack of the natural elements.Steps are being taken to dismantle the weaker sections and send them for repair and to replace some of the stone sections with the equally strong 'Chunar' stones which are found in the nearby region and which were also used in the construction of forts and palaces.Since the 'makrana' stones are extremely rare, the 'Chunar' stones seem a viable alternative.Recently, the current king of Kashi, Kunwar Anant Narayan Singh also visited the 'Baradari' to ascertain the extent of damage to the heritage structure.The Rambagh Baradari is a sterling example of the intricate stone-based architectural design that was the trademark of the artisans of this region and which now, unfortunately is well on its way to becoming a thing of the past.